Lower Largo, Fife, Scotland

Lower Largo

I’ve been visiting quite a few places along the Fife coast of Scotland, doing a bit of beachcombing, really looking for sculptural bits of driftwood to add some interest to the new garden. It hasn’t been as successful as I had hoped, I suppose because the weather has been so calm, recently, the sea isn’t flinging much back at us. Anyway, above is a photo of a bit of the beach at Lower Largo, it used to be a fishing village, before that industry was decimated, now the boats are just small pleasure craft.

Lower Largo

These flats are right on the edge of the beach. I don’t know about you but that doesn’t appeal to me at all. A lot of people are obsessed with having a sea view, especially if they’ve grown up near the sea. But I don’t know how they can ever sleep on stormy nights, and there are plenty of those in a year. Also the sand gets into the houses, that would drive me nuts.

Lower Largo

The photo above is of the most bustling part of the village, because that’s where THE shop is. It doesn’t look too hot in these photos but it was hot, in fact we both got ice cream cones from the shop – or as we call them in Scotland – pokey hats. As you can see there’s a viaduct there but no trains go over it nowadays. In the good old days before Dr Beeching’s savage cuts to our rail services this would have been a busy line, filled with holiday makers and tons of freshly caught fish must have been packed onto trains, heading for the big fish markets in Glasgow and London.

Lower Largo

Standing on the same spot I turned slightly to my right to take the photo above, it’s of the Robinson Crusoe Hotel, named that because the man who inspired Daniel Defoe to write Robinson Crusoe came from Lower Largo. His name was Alexander Selkirk and you can read about him here.

Robinson Crusoe/Alexander Selkirk

This is one of those books that I’ve been thinking about reading for absolutely years but I still haven’t got around to it. But I do wish that I had made a note of every book which I’ve ever read which mentions Robinson Crusoe in it. I’m sure it’s been name-checked in at least 5 of the books which I’ve read recently, it just keeps cropping up. Has anyone else noticed this? The detective in The Moonstone by Wilkie Collins was obsessed by Crusoe.

Anyway, Alexander Selkirk was the real life man whom Daniel Defoe based the story on and he came from the nearby fishing village of Lower Largo in Fife. This is the statue which they have of him as a memorial.

In the Wikipedia article it states that Selkirk asked to be put onto the island because he had doubts about the sea-worthiness of the ship that he was on, but the local version is somewhat different.

Apparently Alexander was a ‘greetin-faced nyaff’, in English that is a moaning, annoying, contemptible person. So the whole ship’s company couldn’t stand listening to him any longer and decided that they had to get rid of him, and deposited him on the uninhabited island of Mas a Tierra/Juan Fernandez, which is 400 miles west of Chile. This seems much more likely to me, especially since he ran off to sea in the first place because his unruly behaviour had got him into trouble locally when he was a youngster. A career as a privateer was obviously preferable to having to go before the kirk session and be punished. Nowadays the island is known as Robinson Crusoe’s Island.

As it happens, Selkirk was lucky not to be on his ship as it actually did sink with the loss of most of the crew and those who survived were thrown into a Chilean jail and left to rot there. You can read more about Selkirk’s life here.

I quite like the fact that it’s all very low key. No museum or anything, I don’t suppose there’s much that they could have in one anyway. It would amount to a map and a goat skin!