More Edinburgh

28 October 2010 00:13

From Rose Street we strolled down to Princes Street which was fairly mobbed but I managed to get a few photographs from there.

This is just the usual view of the castle. I suppose when you’ve seen something from an early age then it’s inevitable that you get blase about it. I was on an airport bus years ago coming back from Germany and there were tourists on the bus whose jaws actually dropped when they saw the castle in the middle of the city.

I like these buildings, I’m not even sure what they are but they always remind me of a German fairy tale. You can see them better when the trees have lost their leaves.

This one is of a part of the National Gallery of Scotland.

Then we walked back to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, taking the route through the city instead of the scenic way. The park land in front of the gallery has been landscaped by the American architect Charles Jencks and looks really lovely.

The autumn trees looked really beautiful reflected in the water.

A Day Out in Edinburgh

26 October 2010 22:58

Yesterday was one of those lovely crisp, blue sky autumn days so we took ourselves off to Edinburgh, parking the car at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. After a quick look at the exhibits we took the path by the Water of Leith which leads to Stockbridge again. It’s becoming a favourite walk with us and quite a few others, you can hardly believe that you are in the middle of a city. There are plenty of ducks but it’s the heron that always amazes me. I suppose it must get fish there but it’s amazing how patient it is.

This photograph is just a wee bit further on, you can see one of the massive supports of Dene Bridge to the right.

A bit further on again and you reach St Bernard’s Well which is mentioned in Frankenstein. It was a very popular place to ‘take the waters’ in Victorian times. I wonder how many survived it!

The usual stroll around the Stockbridge bookshops ended with me buying only two books. Both of them hardbacks, Hatter’s Castle by A.J. Cronin (to replace the paperback which I’m sure is in the house somewhere but I can’t find it) and another Rosamunde Pilcher one, Coming Home, which is pristine and cost me all of 99p. I know I’m not meant to be buying any more books and I had intended only buying Viragos or vintage crime but the people of Stockbridge are holding on to those ones themselves.

It’s only about a 10 or 15 minute walk from there to Rose Street and we thought we would go there and have a late lunch at The Black Rose which is a typical Scottish pub, bare floorboards but no sawdust nowadays! We took a bit of a chance as we hadn’t been there before but the food was fine. We didn’t sit outside though because we aren’t quite that mad. Joan in Pennsylvania, but now ‘pining’ for New England had a memorable holiday in Edinburgh some years ago, staying in a flat in Rose Street and I’m wondering if it has changed much since she was last here but I don’t think it’s easy to make out much from my photographs. It’s quite difficult to photograph Rose Street as it’s so narrow. Well, that’s my excuse!

Rose Street used to always be called ‘notorious’ in years past. Not only because it is full of drinking dens but there used to be a famous brothel there. So it was a popular destination for stag nights. Classy!

It has been pedestrianised and ‘tarted up’ – no pun intended, honest. And now there are small, high class jewellery shops and such as well as betting shops and bars.

Looking east.

Looking west.

There are a few mosaic stone roses laid into the paving on Rose Street. Here’s one.

There is an Art Deco type building halfway along Rose Street, the red sandstone one.

It seems to have been a John Menzies once. Maybe it was their headquarters.

There are a few more photographs of Edinburgh to come tomorrow.

Fleshmarket Close by Ian Rankin

9 October 2010 12:24

Fleshmarket Close cover

Ian Rankin is another local author as he was born in Cardenden, Fife just a few miles from where I live and I thought it was about time I got around to reading something by him. The Rebus books have been dramatised for tv and I always watch them. I usually stick to vintage crime books but I did really enjoy this one.

Set in Edinburgh of course, and it’s nice to be able to drive and walk around the place in your mind if you know the city. Detective Inspector John Rebus’s police station has been closed down and the resulting reorganisation means that Rebus doesn’t even have a desk in his new station. It’s a big hint from the top brass that they want him to retire but Rebus has no intention of doing so.

When a murder victim is discovered in Knoxland, a rough housing-scheme, Rebus and his side-kick Siobhan have the task of finding out who he is before they can even start to find the murderer. During the investigation they uncover an illegal immigrant operation and the whole thing becomes quite convoluted with several different crimes being looked into.

Amongst other things, this is a book about the terrible plight of asylum-seekers and their exploitation. But it isn’t all doom and gloom and there are flashes of dry comedy here and there.

Ian Rankin does seem to have a thing about half-moon glasses. I’m sure that there were three minor female characters in this book who were described as being about 50 and wearing half-moon glasses. I haven’t seen anyone with those for absolutely years.

It’s a fairly large book at 399 pages but it flows easily so it didn’t take long to read. I tried to read Rankin’s first book years ago and I gave up because, if I’m remembering correctly, it was cliched and I didn’t like the style at all. However I heard recently that Ian Rankin described his earlier work as not being great, so I thought I should give him another go. I’m glad I did and I will read more of his work now.

You might want to take a look at his official website here.

According to the blurb his books are bestsellers on several continents and have been translated into 22 languages. He lives in Edinburgh now!

On a personal note, I just wish that he hadn’t given the housing estate the name of Knoxland because that was the name of the primary school that I went to. It was supposed to be THE school in the west of Scotland town that I grew up in, so has completely different connotations for me.

Water of Leith and Antony Gormley

4 September 2010 00:15

When I heard that they were going to be putting some Antony Gormley ‘men’ figures into the Water of Leith, I wasn’t too chuffed about the idea. Last year we went for a walk along the stretch of water from the back of the Modern Art Gallery in Edinburgh to Stockbridge.

It was the first time that we had ever taken that path and it was a great surprise to find a lovely rural and atmospheric spot in the middle of a city. I thought that any man made art work would really ruin the place and spoil the ambience.

So when we stretched our legs along that way again a few weeks ago I was quite relieved and impressed with what I saw. If anything the figures actually add to the atmosphere.

I think the statues are actually supposed to have a use, being a gauge to the level of the river but if you think about it the river would have been used by people thousands of years ago, long before Edinburgh was ever thought of. To me it’s a sort of reminder of this, there would have been people ‘guddling for fish’ and generally getting on with life with the help of the river.

I’m not so sure about the Gormley figures which have been placed atop high buildings in New York City though. They all look to me like they are about to take a suicidal dive off the edge.

R.L. Stevenson’s House, Edinburgh

18 May 2010 09:25

As we were passing this house on the way to St. Giles on Saturday, I thought I would take a photograph of it.

Thomas Stevenson built this house in 1803 at Baxter’s Place, at the bottom of Calton Hill in Edinburgh and just a stone’s throw away from Princes Street. The Stevensons were famous as a family of engineers and lighthouse builders before the author Robert Louis was born into it.

The building was used as a place of work with a separate flat for the family, so this is where R.L. was brought up and as you can see, the windows are boarded up. It has been like that for years and nothing seems to be being done to it.

I can’t help thinking that Edinburgh Council has missed a great opportunity to turn this house into a Stevenson museum, as happens in other towns.

We have museums all over the place which are attracting thousands of visitors, even when they are in out of the way places such as Haworth (Bronte) and Kirriemuir (J.M. Barrie). Even Paul McCartney’s childhood home has been turned into a museum.

Unfortunately the top parts of the Georgian building have been sold off seperately and seem to be being lived in by people now, although there is a broken window, maybe squatters have moved in. So I think they’ve missed the chance to put it all back as it originally was. If the flats ever come up for sale they will be so expensive given the price of any property in Edinburgh but especially Georgian townhouses, the council would never pay out the money required.

I can’t understand why the basement and first floor have been left vacant and unloved for years though. It’s a mystery.

Take Back Parliament Demonstration

17 May 2010 09:53

It has taken me 50 years to take part in a demonstration and I didn’t really know what to expect. We all gathered at St. Giles Cathedral on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile as you can see in this photograph.

The turnout wasn’t bad really, probably about 300 people. I’m sure there would have been far more people if we had had more notice of the thing, but that couldn’t be helped, I’m sure. I know folks who couldn’t make it but would have liked to have taken part.

Eventually the purple flag holders moved to the front and we set off up the Royal Mile and round into The Mound and along to New College. I wouldn’t call it a march, more of an amiable amble really.

We were a motley mob, aged from babes in arms to elderly gents in kilts. Nearly everyone was wearing or holding something purple to signify justice/equality.

So it wasn’t a long amble and when we reached our destination there was some speechifying from about five different people, including one Edinburgh M.P.

The organiser seemed to be pleased with the turnout. But we can only hope that the whole thing will gather momentum, we were asked to try to get five people that we know to join in the campaign. I’m not a fan of chain letter type things but in this case it’s the only way to go forward.

So if anyone reading this post is, like me, fed up with my vote never counting and completely scunnered with the terrible system of voting that we have in Britain – please sign up to Take Back Parliament. Oak trees from little acorns grow and all that!

Fair Votes Now.

Martyrs’ Monument, Edinburgh

4 May 2010 10:34

Political Martyrs Monument

Political Martyrs Monument

This 90 foot high obelisk was erected in 1845 at Waterloo Place in Edinburgh. It commemorates William Skirving, Thomas Muir, Joseph Gerrald, Thomas Fyshe Palmer and Maurice Margarot who were known as the Scottish Martyrs. They were tried for sedition in 1793, with the judge telling the jury that sedition in this case meant violating the peace and order of society. In fact they were only campaigning for reform of the parliamentary system to give men over the age of 21 the vote, amongst other things.

They were found guilty and transported to Australia for 14 years. In 1794 they sailed from Portsmouth on The Surprise bound for Botany Bay. William Skirving, the one that I am most interested in as I think I am related to him, died of dysentery not long after reaching Australia. His wife and children were re-housed by a landowner in Kirkcaldy.

Thomas Muir and William Skirving

Scottish words: fantoosh

18 January 2010 00:03

You don’t hear the word fantoosh all that often nowadays but I think it is a great word and I use it whenever I can.

If something or someone is being described as being fantoosh it means that they, or it, is overdressed, ultra fashionable, over-ornamented, too fancy. Just downright over the top.

I always think that this word should be of French derivation as quite a lot of Scottish words are, due to the influence of the French people who came to Edinburgh when Mary, Queen of Scots came back from France as a young widow. There is a part of Edinburgh which is still called Little France, however I can’t find any evidence that it derives from French.

I do think that fantoosh is quite presbyterian though as I’ve always heard it used in a slightly disapproving way. It’s the feeling that anything too fancy must be sinful. It’s the influence of Calvinism I suppose.

Anyway, I really like fantoosh and I’d hate it to die out, although I suppose if you were in America it might sound a bit rude to some people as it’s almost like two words for bum (butt) spliced together.

That might make it all the more desirable to use though, just for a laugh.

Edinburgh (Capital Punishment)

18 October 2009 22:46

We had a lovely day out in Edinburgh yesterday, keeping well away from Princes Street. I’m from Glasgow and we laughingly call such a trip capital punishment.

First we visited the National Gallery of Modern Art, it has free plentiful parking and free entry so no worries there.

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, Edinburgh

We used to take our boys to the gallery quite often when they were wee, you can’t start them off too young. I can’t tell you how impressed an art teacher was when one of them recognised a Henry Moore from a photograph.

Reclining Figure

Unfortunately there is a Damien Hirst exhibition on at the moment and it just left me completely cold. Fish, a dead sheep and a medicine cabinet. I just don’t get it at all and to me his whole career has come about because the so called experts weren’t brave enough to stand up and say what garbage his ‘art’ really is. The diamond encrusted skull was so unoriginal and boring.

I watched Newsnight Review last night and Kirsty Wark and company seemed to be surprised by how bad his attempts at more traditional art were. Actually, they wondered if he had deliberately made poor attempts as they didn’t seem to think it was possible for the great Damien Hirst to be so evidently talentless.

Well, I’ve never seen any evidence that he has ever had any talent. It’s just The Emperor’s New Clothes all over again.

Anyway. To shake off the Hirst mind numbingly boring experience, we decided to take a walk along the Water of Leith path which is just at the back of the Gallery.

Water Of Leith 1

We hadn’t been that way before and decided to turn left and took the path to Stockbridge rather than Balerno as we haven’t the foggiest notion of what there is to see at Balerno.

Water Of Leith 2

It was a really lovely day and it was quite busy down there what with joggers, walkers and cyclists. The water was really picturesque with great reflections of the autumnal trees.

Water Of Leith 3

I was surprised that there is so much housing along the way and some really great buildings, both modern, old and sort of repro. It must be a popular place to live as it is so rural but close to the city.

It wasn’t long before we were mounting the steps leading to Stockbridge which always seems to be quite villagey to me. It even has a traditional butcher shop and I can tell you that they are really thin on the ground in Scotland now – and I never thought I would find myself saying that. That’s Tesco for you.

There are nice independent shops like a cheesemonger as well. It’s just a pity that there are so many charity shops, although I shouldn’t really complain about that as we did buy quite a few books. Now we just have to find space for them, usual problem. It was nice to see that Scotmid has taken over the old Woolworths shop as I know that the local residents had a bit of a battle to stop one of the big supermarkets from taking it over. That would have killed off the whole area shop-wise.

So if you ever feel tempted towards capital punishment do yourself a favour and shun Princes Street for a nice slice of real Edinburgh life.